Andy Mueller has always been that chef who likes to visit the tables of his diners, not just for the immediate feedback of the food but as a way to say thank you for the patronage.
It’s something he’s been doing since he was the original chef at the Black & Tan Grille when it opened in 1998 in De Pere. It’s still at the heart of what he does, but at his newest venture, Picasso Moon, he doesn’t even have to leave the kitchen to make those connections.
The intimate Allouez restaurant has room for just 30, including the bar, with an open kitchen that allows him to see every face that comes in.
“Now I’m basically doing that from the window in an exhibition kitchen. So people will see me and they’ll wave, and I’ll know who they are and they’ll know who I am. It’s a blast,” he said. “Many, many of my great friendships have been made in this business because of that, because of communication and talking with them.”
Chef Andy Mueller, who grew up in Allouez and previously owned the Galley 57 supper club on Riverside Drive, is back cooking in his hometown with his newest venture, Picasso Moon. He’s also the owner of the restaurant that opened in September at 1235 S. Webster Ave.
That most people know him simply as “Chef Andy,” a moniker given to him when he wrote a local cooking column in the ’90s, tells you something about both his personal approach and his dedicated following. Some customers have been with him from the early Zimmani’s days in downtown Green Bay to Galley 57, first in Allouez in 2016 and then in Bellevue in 2019, to reopenings of the Black & Tan Grille and the Ten O One Club, both in Green Bay, and the many other stops in between during his 38-year career.
“What a beautiful thing that is. How much better or bigger of a compliment can you get than for someone to follow and really love what you’re doing?” he said. “It means so much.”
They’re finding him now at Picasso Moon since it opened quietly at the end of September, but it might not have been the first place they thought to look. Located at 1235 S. Webster Ave., it’s nestled in a neighborhood just a street away from the Allouez-Green Bay border. In a former home that once housed a dental practice before sitting vacant for several years, the restaurant occupies the lower level.
“It was a mess,” Mueller said.
It was also perfect.
Paintings by local artist Heather Peterman add a colorful punch to the walls at Picasso Moon in Allouez. All of her work on display at the restaurant is for sale.
Mueller had just sold his home on the bay of Green Bay and told his real estate agent he needed a place to help fill the time he had previously spent on the property’s upkeep and out on the water fishing.
“I’m from Allouez. I love Allouez. I had a business in Allouez with Galley 57. She said, ‘There’s a little spot in Allouez that’s kind of a diamond in the rough. It needs a lot of work and it needs renovation but come and check it out.’
“I just walked in and said, ‘I can do something with this. I know I can do something with this.’”
The transformation wasn’t quick or easy. The upstairs, which Picasso Moon uses for storage, still had X-ray equipment and dental assistant arms. The lower conference room had concrete floors, old carpeting and lime green on the walls. All the electrical and plumbing had to be updated. In many ways, Mueller said it was like putting in a new building.
What he loved about it at first sight is the modest square footage. It was just the right size to fit his creative vision, from both a culinary and ambiance standpoint. He was ready to take a step back from larger restaurants and “feeding the masses,” as he puts it, to focus on the people and the food.
“I didn’t want a big place. Then you’re getting into all of the things that take you away from your talent. Mine is to make food taste good. That’s really simply it. If you have a gift, the only way to say thanks is to use it and give it away,” he said. “It allows me to be the chef and the manager and not to have to hire those positions out. I can focus on surrounding myself with a smaller team that is just as passionate about this kind of place as I am.”
The dining space at Picasso Moon is intimate with seating for roughly 30 guests, including a small bar area.
His signature steak is always on the menu, but entrees, appetizers and art change
So just what kind of place is it? Not one that lends itself to a convenient label. It doesn’t fit the definition of a supper club, but it’s not a bistro, either. It’s a conglomeration of all of Mueller’s experiences and valuable lessons learned in the food and beverage industry, with a fresh twist. He likes the word “unique.”
“This is an original. This is not cookie-cutter in any way,” he said. “That’s the only box we stayed within was the square footage. All of it that went into the box was thought about outside of the box. … I’m trying to be the only one doing what I’m doing.”
He named it for one of his favorite artists, Pablo Picasso, who didn’t limit his creativity to just one medium. Mueller took inspiration from the well-known Picasso quote: “Everything you can imagine is real.”
With its dark, sarsaparilla-colored walls, warm lighting, large windows and potted plants, it’s both cozy and contemporary. Original paintings by local artist Heather Peterman punctuate the room with striking pops of color and make a dining space also a gallery space. All of the pieces are for sale, and as one goes out the door, Peterman adds another to keep the collection always changing.
The exhibition kitchen is also part of the appeal for customers.
“They just love to see how things are made,” Mueller said. “You see a beautiful plate when it comes to your table, but people are so fascinated by how it came to fruition so they can actually see me making the dish. I think they appreciate it. There’s no mystery.”
It’s not a sprawling commercial kitchen packed with high-end equipment just for the sake of filling the space. His is just big enough to accommodate a cooking area, prep area and cooler space. No walk-in freezer necessary, because everything is made fresh.
“I have everything I need and nothing I don’t need,” he said. “Volume is not the focus here. It’s the food and it’s the customer service, because that’s why people are going to come back.
“I don’t have to make 30 gallons of soup. I’m going to make a beautiful batch of soup and when it’s gone, it’s gone. I’m going to get fish in for today and maybe a different fish is coming in tomorrow, and next week is going to be different.”
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The fine dining menu changes weekly depending on what ingredients are available, particularly with seafood. Salmon is usually available, but sea bass and halibut have a season and are often dependent on weather conditions. Diners will always find a pasta dish each week, and Mueller’s signature dish of the last 30 years, his filet mignon over Gorgonzola crostini with caramelized onions and a Cabernet demi-glace, is a menu staple.
“It has been on every menu I’ve had, and it’s been the biggest seller on every menu I’ve had,” he said.
In addition to dinner entrees, Picasso Moon also offers an appetizer menu for people who want to enjoy the atmosphere over a glass of wine or craft cocktail. It also changes, with offerings ranging from flatbread pizza to a charcuterie board to a hummus made with chickpea and sweet potato and topped with sumac and caramelized onions.
There are desserts, too. Think mousses that allow for creative flair or cheesecake served in a martini glass with raspberry sauce and lemon crumble.
For customers looking to enjoy the atmosphere with a cocktail or glass of wine and an appetizer, Picasso Moon in Allouez has a small bar with a prime view of the exhibition kitchen.
From growing up in Allouez to cooking for Packers legend Reggie White
Mueller grew up in the Allouez neighborhood behind the former St. Matthew’s School with a front-row seat to the best cook he knows: his mom. As kids playing outside, they always looked forward to being called in for dinner to see what she had made. She has long been famous for her lemon bars.
“It sounds simple, but she would bake them and bring them out to Galley 57 or she’d make them for any event and it was the hit of every party,” he said. “My entire staff: ‘When is your mom going to make lemon bars?’’’
His mom (who has always called him Andrew, never Andy) saw his fascination with the food world as a child. He says she knew he was going to be a chef before he did, but she never pushed him in that direction. She let him discover that passion for himself.
What started with being a line cook to help pay for college in the late ’80s blossomed into a career that has included countless restaurant adventures, a “surreal” stint as the private chef for Packers great Reggie White and his family during the year of Super Bowl XXXI and an appearance with Guy Fieri on the Food Network.
“It’s one of the few industries, if not the only one, where you can start out as a dishwasher and become the CEO of your company without any education,” Mueller said. “It’s just hard work, determination and consistency.”
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The chance to return to Allouez with Picasso Moon feels a little like a homecoming for Mueller. He’s a proud example of how you can take the boy out of Allouez, but you can’t take Allouez out of the boy.
He loves the practicality the village offers with easy access to State 172 to travel east or west and that downtown Green Bay is just a few minutes away. That will be a benefit when Picasso Moon gets into catering, he said, but it’s about more than just logistics. While big franchises populate new development in the surrounding areas with more locations, he likes that Allouez lends itself to mom-and-pop, made-from-scratch businesses like the Lorelei Inn and Allouez Cafe that have been around for decades.
“This is my home. I’ve embraced Allouez, and I think Allouez has embraced me, too, because I just appreciate everybody that has supported me. Truly appreciate it.”
Those long-nurtured personal relationships are allowing him to grow Picasso Moon organically through Facebook and old-fashioned word-of-mouth during what he calls the “honeymoon phase,” but you won’t catch him resting on his reputation.
“I still have to come through on every single plate. I can’t ride upon that ‘Well, I used to be amazing.’ You’re only as good as the last plate of food you put out in front of the last person you served,” he said.
“’It was a great experience. We’ll be back.’ Those are your favorite things to hear.”
Things to know about visiting Picasso Moon
Picasso Moon, 1235 S. Webster Ave., is currently open beginning at 4 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Future plans call for pop-up brunches.
Reservations are highly recommended by calling 920-393-1980 or messaging chef Andy Mueller on Facebook at facebook.com/p/Picasso-Moon-61580456016654. Updates on menu items, hours and special events are also shared on Facebook.
Parking is available in a paved lot behind the building at the back entrance and on McCormick Street.
Kendra Meinert is an entertainment and feature writer at the Green Bay Press-Gazette. Contact her at 920-431-8347 or kmeinert@greenbay.gannett.com. Follow her on X @KendraMeinert.
This article originally appeared on Green Bay Press-Gazette: Chef Andy Mueller’s new Picasso Moon restaurant is an Allouez original
