Food & Wine magazine today announced the winners of its 2024 Global Tastemaker Awards, and a Nashville modern American eatery sits on the list of the top 20 restaurants in the country.

Among competitive go-to food spots from heavy-hitting cities like Los Angeles and Chicago sits 12 South’s small but mighty 36-seat Locust, where the chefs recently announced they were done with traditional dinner service. Why? Because they wanted it that way. Though the restaurant serves its full menu at lunch, it’s all about the dumplings and drinks at night.

More: Dinner at Locust: Starting in March, no reservations, other big changes. What to know

But that new format should work fine with Food & Wine editors, who call those translucent little packages of flavor “still among the best things you can eat here.” They’re not wrong.

Food is served to the customers at Locust in Nashville, Tenn., Friday, Sept. 15, 2023.

Food is served to the customers at Locust in Nashville, Tenn., Friday, Sept. 15, 2023.

USA TODAY Network food writers recently named Locust among the best in the country, citing those dumplings but also beautiful dayboat seafood and some of the best beef tartare you’ll eat. The Tennessean also pointed to Locust as the best restaurant in the city in 2023.

More: USA TODAY writers named their Restaurants of the Year. This Nashville spot made the list

As far as Food & Wine’s editors are concerned, Locust, which launched as an homage to dumplings and shaved ice when it opened in 2020, would deserve a spot on the list if nothing had changed.

“But today, Locust, (also) Food and Wine’s Restaurant of the Year 2022, is a lot more than that,” they wrote. “There are peeky-toe crab omelets, curry potato chips, and clam toasts; each is addictive for their simplicity, concentration of flavor, and delicate preparation.”

More: The top 25 restaurants in Nashville in 2023

What are Food & Wine’s Global Tastemaker Awards?

Results were curated and ranked by Food & Wine editors in collaboration with food and travel experts from around the globe.

Other awards include the magazine’s Best International Restaurants rankings, with Mérito in Lima, Peru, in the top spot, and the top 10 U.S. Cities for Food and Drinks, a compilation that did not include Nashville.

You can find the full list and other awards at foodandwine.com/globaltastemakers, with more highlights coming in the May issue of Food & Wine magazine, on stands April 19.

Locust is at 2305 12th Ave. S. More at www.locustnashville.com.

Mackensy Lunsford is The Tennessean’s senior dining reporter. Reach her at [email protected].

This article originally appeared on Nashville Tennessean: Nashville restaurant lands a spot on Food & Wine’s best 20 in US list

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