For about two-months each year, the coastal city of Pensacola looks different under the glow of gold, purple and green. Plastic strings of beads have a newfound worth. Miniature toy babies pop up in your baked goods. Furry boas, pink wigs and weathered pirate hats are must have accessories. It can all mean only one thing − Mardi Gras season has arrived.
The season, known as Carnival, runs from the Epiphany on Jan. 6 through Fat Tuesday, and is a celebration originating from Mobile, Alabama, while it is most famously celebrated in New Orleans, Louisiana.
Known as a time of the year filled with parties, alcohol and a surplus of sweet marshmallow Moon Pies, is serves as a period of indulgence before Lent begins.
While Pensacola has adopted much of the traditions and lore of its larger surrounding cities, it offers the unique experience of white sugar-sand beaches for the backdrop of parade routes, and families line up shoulder to shoulder safely downtown even on the busiest weekend of the season.
But it’s so much more than that.
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But just saying that all Pensacola’s Mardi Gras is a good time would an understatement. It offers a time for connection, community philanthropy and has become a point of Pensacola’s pride.
Its reputation for its roaring Carnival season has steadily grown float by float, making Pensacola a Mardi Gras destination. Many have risen to the occasion to make it that way, ensuring its traditions are here to stay.
Pensacola Mardi Gras dates back to 1874
While Pensacola’s Mardi Gras celebrations date back to 1874, 1900 was the year it found its footing, according to “Mardi Gras, A History from 1900 to 1930” written by Barbara Fisher and published by the Pensacola Historical Society.
It didn’t take more than a couple years after that to be considered a smashing success, with “trainloads of tourists” flowing into the city recorded as early as 1903.
“Some had been trying to get to Pensacola for two days, but the trains were too crowded,” Fisher recorded of the 1903 Mardi Gras celebration.
Today, the celebration includes more than 100 krewes and draws more than 100,000 visitors annually to Pensacola’s Grand Mardi Gras Parade, according to Mardi Gras Inc. President Danny Zimmern, the man behind the massive celebration.
When Carnival first made its way to Pensacola, a wave of childlike joy flooded the city. This is no surprise float themes the first few years reverted back to children’s themes, including hand-painted, watercolor floats inspired by nursery rhymes like Jack and Jill or Peter, Pumpkin Eater in 1903 or the Little Mermaid or Robinson Crusoe portrayed in 1904’s parade theme, “The Romance of Childhood.”
Buildings were dressed in tri-colored cloths, masks covered the faces of revelers who frolicked the streets. Confetti was “used promiscuously” until sidewalks were several inches thick, and cups of gumbo tempted parade goers for a quarter each.
By 1906, the city set out to make the celebration the biggest one they had ever seen. Little did they know, each year would keep getting bigger and better.
“If there were 2,000 people at the ball, then practically every Pensacolian must have turned out for the parade,” Fisher recorded from 1906.
By 1908, they had 7,000 attendees, followed by another 10,000 the next year, climbing to 30,000 by 1927.
Traditions came and went over the course of those defining first few decades. Some have since faded away, like the “comic parade” of 1907 with appearances from fictional characters like “Foxy Grandpa” and “Happy Hooligan.” Other traditions, such as the major balls that began expanding in 1914, are still very much alive and cherished.
Mardi Gras momentum and memories begin to fade
Despite its positive start, celebrations began to stall starting with 1918’s “sober and patriotic” Mardi Gras due to the U.S.’ involvement in World War I. Mostly all the balls were relinquished, and confetti banned, followed by no official celebration from 1919-21.
“A celebration of this kind is not in keeping with the spirt of the times when the country has just emerged from war,” Fisher recorded.
The hiatus was short-lived, and by 1922, celebrations were back in full force. What had taken a year to plan previously only took a few weeks to throw together. Events breathed new life through the jazz age, bringing a new energy with music and street-dancing, but it didn’t last. By 1928, it started to fall on decline until the last parade was held in 1930. Or so they thought.
Mardi Gras bounces back after 50-year hiatus
It wasn’t until the late 1970s that Mardi Gras started to see a resurgence when Mardi Gras of Pensacola formed and brought back a Tuesday Pub Crawl and a Grand Parade. However, the future was still rocky until Pensacola Mardi Gras, Inc. was formed in 2002, transforming Mardi Gras into a true holiday season rather than just a day or two of merriment.
Zimmern, a Pensacola real estate agent and now Pensacola Mardi Gras Inc.’s leader, never imagined that he would be the one to take the reins in ensuring Pensacola Mardi Gras celebrations didn’t follow the recessions of the past.
Pensacola Mardi Gras Inc. propels Mardi Gras forward
Zimmern’s Mardi Gras destiny was sealed when he agreed help set up a few floats to score a free beer, while Fiesta Pensacola put on the actual parade. When Zimmern was eventually asked to take over, his asking price changed. Now instead of just a beer, he was getting a trailer to put his kids in the parade and give them “the time of their life.”
But there were some growing pains, navigating sky-high event insurance and a shoestring budget as he navigated how to make the parade sustainable enough that it could happen every year.
When they experimented with the first Twelfth Night Kick-Off party to bring in funds for the parade, the popular turn-out created his vision of growing Mardi Gras into an entire season. Now, the day of the Grand Parade is one of Pensacola’s busiest days of the year.
“It was really good for downtown,” Zimmern said as participants would once again flock to the streets.
While Pensacola Mardi Gras Inc. is a two-person production, run by Zimmern and his long-time friend Amy Newman, it requires a lot of volunteers. Zimmern said he has about a dozen key volunteers, and another 50 or so who help when needed.
While attendees’ focus is on seeing how many specialty throws they can snag at the Grand Parade, Zimmern’s mind is set on how to make it even better.
“There has to be someone saying, ‘How can we make this last forever,’” Zimmern said.
A large part of the tradition’s health are the “doers” of the krewe, who devote their time and resources year-round to make the short season such a success.
Krewe participation integral to Mardi Gras success
Zimmern isn’t the only one who wants to see Pensacola’s Mardi Gras traditions flourish.
Keith Carson, this year’s president of the Krewe of Lafitte − one of the largest men’s krewes along the Florida Panhandle − said when the board accepts new members, they are accepting those who they envision carrying the krewe on. They’re deciding the krewe’s fate and future.
The krewe was established in 1954 by 19 Pensacola businessmen who believed in “fostering fellowship, equality and community service.” Over the years, it has risen to close to 300 members who have joined Lafitte’s brotherhood.
The scale of their presence in Pensacola is unmatched, with up to 13 floats, five parades they participate in − including their own spectacular Krewe of Lafitte Illuminated Parade on Friday night led by the krewe’s hand-built floats − three balls and countless charity events, such as their annual Pirates for Prostates Golf Tournament.
“Everything we do is to help make this community a little better,” Carson said.
The pirates have been tied to the face of Mardi Gras for a long time, and many of the members have eyed the krewe since childhood with their detailed ships, feather caps and plastic swords.
“To me, they were the gods of everything,” past-president Reid Radford said of watching Lafitte as a child.
That effect is not lost on children today, as Radford walks the parade route and witnesses the wide-eyed excitement when they are handed a plush animal or sword from one of the pirates.
Carson, who moved to Pensacola from Texas in 2009, said he was struck with the same magic that Lafitte creates in adulthood after witnessing them in a parade on Pensacola Beach (held on Sunday, the final day of the three-parade weekend).
“I don’t know what I’ve got to do, but I’ve got to meet someone on one of those floats,’’ Carson remembers saying at the time.
“I found out there’s a whole lot more to it than having fun,” Carson added. “The value to it… what you see and what you find … the friends.”
While Lafitte krewe members come off tough (Carson, for example, has “Lafitte” tattooed across his hands), there are few dry eyes when they bring their parades into the schools to make the season more accessible for children.
Lafitte krewe member and treasurer Jeff Sherman, who spent 20 years serving in the U.S. Navy, joined after he heard the krewe resembled the comradery of the military that he was missing.
“A friend told me, ‘It’s like walking back on the ship,’” Sherman said.
The friendship outlasts the Mardi Gras season.
“If you need help, you’ll have 10 people at your door in a phone call,” said Lafitte’s first vice president, Robert Brown.
To them, the benefits of being part of the krewe go beyond personal gain, but about what they are able to offer their community through their entertainment and charitable work. Some krewe members spend thousands of dollars each year to help to make Pensacola’s free Mardi Gras events special for the community.
Brown, who is a third generation krewe member − his grandfather is one of the krewe’s founders − is invested in seeing the krewe thrive, he said.
“Other (krewes) can’t hold a candle to our history,” Radford added.
“We’re setting a standard when the cowgirl hats go on”
One krewe that would argue they have a rich history all their own is the all-women’s group, the Pensacola Krewe of Jesters.
Jesters krewe member Paddi Cain credits the krewe as being the longest surviving krewe in Pensacola, which was established in 1946.
Their first ball was held shortly after their formation at the San Carlos Hotel, with their members made primarily of military wives, according to Cain.
Since then, the group has grown to host women from “all different walks of life.”
It’s still growing strong.
While she’ll admit the krewe is a “little milder” than some of the others, with members ranging from age 30 to the oldest who recently passed away at age 100 − they still know how to party. One way is through their surprise-themed balls, where the decorations and court’s costumes are unveiled at the event. Past years have ranged from Disney Villains to James Bond “Shaken Not Stirred.”
Through each year’s membership and theme changes, the closeness remains.
“It’s giving people an outlet they wouldn’t normally have. It makes you feel like you’re really part of something,” Cain said.
While the Krewe of Daisy Dukes is one of the newer krewes in town, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year with about 90 members, they’re forging lasting traditions of their own. They formed their krewe under similar principles, promoting unity and friendship amongst like-minded women.
If you follow the glitter trail they leave behind, they’re sure to lead you to a good time, whether it’s to their annual Rhinestone Rodeo, to a line-dance or out to one of their “Jail and Bail” fundraisers. However, their hearts are tied to the community, through service projects. When they’re in costume, their contributions to the community is what they want to be known for.
“We’re setting a standard when the cowgirl hats go on,” said Daisy Dukes President Selisa Daniel.
Members have become a sisterhood, ranging from ages 21 to 65, and members become mentors.
“I have made life-long friendships,” said Daisy Dukes Vice President Robin Kelly.
Zimmern said the beauty of Pensacola’s Mardi Gras growth comes the growth of the krewes, so you can easily get connected to a krewe that best fits your personality and interests.
While Pensacola Mardi Gras Inc. “plays Switzerland” in withholding recommendations on which krewes to join, according to Zimmern, he recommends newcomers go to an event, mingle with the krewes, and find out for themselves which one seems like the best fit. Or even better yet, start your own.
“I always thought of Mardi Gras as family, that’s what it always was”
For New Orleans native Cyndie Legendre − this year’s krewe member, ball chair and elected queen for Perdido Key krewe Pirates of Lost Treasure – the image of a queen adorned in a regal gown with a flowing long train being paraded on the top of a float was dream material for a little girl in NOLA.
As she grew older, Mardi Gras meant more than the thrill of hundreds of parades, but more so for the cousins getting together to enjoy a spread of food and family time.
When moving to the Panhandle with her husband, after 14 years of frequenting the area as their beloved vacation spot, she knew that getting into a krewe was at the top of her priority list.
“The first thing we wanted to do was get back into Mardi Gras,” Legendre said. “I always thought of Mardi Gras as family, that’s what it always was.”
The Pirates of Lost Treasure, founded in 1992, caught their eye because of their Mardi Gras Flotilla, or boat-based parade where floats take to the seas instead of the streets. This year will be the flotilla’s 30th year.
She and her husband were involved from the beginning, and even had a hand in developing this year’s parade theme of “Pirate Tales,” which encourages floats decorated around the kind of story a pirate would tell you.
While she acknowledged how much time they pour into the krewe, she never imagined that when the unveiling began for the krewe’s queen her name would be called.
“It’s a big surprise, kind of like how they do it in New Orleans. I was shocked, I was standing there holding the crown,” Legendre said.
While the crowning is high on her list of Mardi Gras memories, some of her most meaningful experiences revolve around her krewe’s involvement in their famous Secret Santa program in which the krewe raises money and shops for Christmas presents for local children to give their parents “from Santa.”
Their biggest fundraiser is grilling outside of Flora-Bama’s Mullet Toss.
One thing special about getting plugged into a Pensacola krewe, versus in New Orleans, is the connection she has been able to experience in her community, making becoming queen even more special.
“I guess my dream came true,” Legendre added.
Want to experience Pensacola Mardi Gras for yourself? Save the dates for these free events:
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Feb. 28: Krew of Lafitte Illuminated Parade
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March 1: Pensacola Grand Mardi Gras Parade
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March 2: Krewe of Wrecks Pensacola Beach Mardi Gras Parade
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March 8: Mardi Gras Bead Tree Clean-Up
This article originally appeared on Pensacola News Journal: Mardi Gras in Pensacola, Florida is a Carnival destination
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