These sleepers are just as compelling as the flagship releases.
collage of watch releases
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Watches and Wonders Geneva is the year’s biggest watch show, and dozens of brands launch hundreds of new models at the event every year. With so many watches flooding the zone at once, it’s impossible to take note of everything, especially with a handful of models tending to dominate the headlines.
We’ve already gone over the most important releases from the show, along with our personal favorites, so now it’s time to share those under-the-radar watches you might have missed from this year’s show. Below, you’ll find 15 sleeper picks from Rolex, Patek Philippe and others that just might give the flagship releases a run for their money.
Watches and Wonders Geneva: The watch world’s biggest release party may be over but the year in horology has just begun. Catch up on all the key novelties from Rolex, Panerai, Patek Philippe and more.
The Land-Dweller got all the headlines, but Rolex had plenty of other impressive releases at Watches and Wonders this year. – Credit: Photo by Ben Bowers for Gear Patrol
A refreshingly petite German dress watch
a gold watch with a blue dial and brown leather strap
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm
Specs
At 34mm in diameter, this is the smallest A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ever produced. The rose gold case, navy blue 925 silver dial and classical small seconds layout exhibit the German watchmaker’s esteemed craftsmanship in a modest fashion.
The diminutive dress watch runs on an in-house hand-wound movement and comes on a genuine alligator leather strap with an 18k gold pin buckle.
An adventurous and faithful 1960s throwback
an alpina watch
Alpina Tropic-Proof Handwinding
Specs
A seriously faithful reissue of an Alpina sports watch from the 1960s, which was originally made to be humidity-proof and intended for tropical explorers, the reborn Tropic-Proof maintains its predecessor’s 34mm case size, hand-wound movement and vintage good looks.
Modern updates include a box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and a soft and comfortable Alcantara strap.
A more wearable take on a stylish favorite
a steel square case watch with a black dial
Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm
Specs
For the first time, Bell & Ross is offering the BR-05’s signature rounded-square design in a 36mm case. This is the most wearable version of the fan-favorite integrated bracelet sports watch, especially for those with smaller wrists.
The simple glossy dial with tall applied white lume indices, which match the hands with rounded steel framing, is an incredibly versatile application of the brand’s distinct design language.
Arguably the toughest perpetual calendar ever produced
a steel watch with a complicated blue dial
Bremont Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT
Specs
Bremont’s most sophisticated and ambitious design is a titanium pilot’s watch with a sporty presentation of a perpetual calendar and GMT on one dial. Boasting the brand’s signature Trip-Tick case and 100m of water resistance, it’s among the most rugged perpetual calendars ever made by any brand.
Powered by a hand-wound movement, it displays a second time zone at 12 o’clock, the month and leap year cycle at three o’clock, the date at six o’clock and running seconds at nine o’clock. This watch is made to order, with a 10 to 12-month lead time, and is limited to 50 pieces.
A supersized, automatic version of a bonafide classic
a rose gold rectangular Cartier watch with a brown leather stap
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Automatic
Specs
The quintessential Cartier Tank, in this case the Tank Louis Cartier rendition, is presented in an imposing, scaled-up form to accommodate a new automatic movement.
At 38mm long, 28mm wide and 8mm thick, it is 4mm longer, 2mm wider and 2mm thicker than the large model hand-wound Tank Louis Cartier. It’s available in both yellow gold with a gray alligator strap and rose gold with a brown alligator strap.
A gorgeous dress watch marking a quarter-century of revolutionary technology
a chopard watch
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV
Specs
Chopard marks 25 years of its Quattro technology — which comprises dual stacks of twin mainspring barrels resulting in an impressive 9-day power reserve — with this refined L.U.C. dress watch.
Encased in platinum and boasting a light-blue dial with a frosted texture and uniquely adorned dauphine hands, this dress watch has the gorgeous exterior to match its impressive COSC-certified and Geneva-Sealed internals.
The best-looking chronograph to ever say “Seiko” on the dial
a steel chronograph watch with a black and silver dial
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC007
Specs
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$14,100 at Grand Seiko Boutique
The second iteration of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 Tentagraph chronograph — the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph — features a snowy blue panda dial inspired by Japan’s Mt. Iwate in winter.
The watch runs on the caliber 9SC5 Hi-Beat mechanical chronograph movement that runs at 5Hz with a power reserve of 72 hours. The case and bracelet are made of Grand Seiko’s proprietary High-Intensity Titanium, making this chronograph as rugged as it is handsome.
A cult-favorite sports watch gets a glitzy makeover
a moser watch
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Frozen
Specs
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$68,200 at H. Moser & Cie.
One of the most unique and impressive chronographs on the market, the Streamliner Flyback gets a sparkling makeover thanks to a “Frozen” dial treatment featuring a stamped texture and a frosted fumé finish that plays with the light in endless ways.
The Midnight Blue dial features racing-inspired details and is housed inside a 5N red gold case and paired with an integrated black rubber strap, while the automatic chronograph movement boasts both a central minutes counter and a flyback function.
A handcrafted dial you don’t see every day — or ever
an hermes watch
Hermès Arceau 18-3-7
Specs
A handcrafted creation of just 24 total pieces, the Hermès Arceau 18-3-7 features a dial unlike any other in watchmaking.
Made up of individual pieces of leather, the marquetry dial depicts a scene of three racing jockeys bearing the numbers 18, 3 and 7, symbolizing the year in which the maison was founded.
A value-driven dive watch packed with cutting-edge innovations
a montblanc dive watch
Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date 0 Oxygen
Specs
An evolution of Montblanc’s flagship dive watch, this version clocks in at a smaller 38mm case size while still ticking every box and then some.
It’s equipped with 0 Oxygen technology to ensure a fog-free dial and prevent oxidization of the movement, ISO standard 642 diver’s certification, a ceramic bezel and an adventurous glacier-pattenerd dial.
A horological powerhouse that’s as striking as it is practical
a panerai watch
Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech
Specs
One of the most impressive watches Panerai has ever created, this souped-up Luminor combines perpetual calendar and GMT complications in an anti-shock, 55-jewel, automatic movement powered by a gold micro rotor.
The case is crafted from Platinumtech, Panerai’s extra-hard platinum alloy, while the dial is a disc of transparent blue sapphire that gives a glimpse into the watch’s inner workings.
A sporty and capable twist on one of the most iconic dress watches ever
a patek philippe watch
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Days 5328G
Specs
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$70,700 at Patek Philippe
A sporty twist on one of the most iconic dress watches of all time, Patek’s Calatrava ref. 5328G debuts a new manually wound movement offering 8 days of power and instantaneously jumping day and date functions.
The 41mm case is in white gold and is paired with a grain-textured gradient blue dial and a stitched canvas-effect calfskin strap.
A groundbreaking experiment in materials with the perfect dose of elegance
a Parmigiani Fleurier watch
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra Cermet
Specs
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$43,100 at Parmigiani Fleurier
The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph was already Parmigiani Fleurier’s sportiest watch, but the Ultra Cermet version takes the elegant brand into even sportier territory.
This version of the automatic chronograph is the first watch in the world with a case, bezel, crown, pushers and clasp entirely crafted from Cermet, a composite of ceramic and titanium that combines the best attributes of both materials with a unique and stunning luster.
A simple update works wonders for a stalwart sports watch
a piaget watch
Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold
Specs
The modern incarnation of Piaget’s Polo sports watch has been a low-key attainable alternative to the Patek Philippe Aquanaut for some time now, and the line’s first rose gold model only makes the comparison more apt.
Boasting a 42mm case in solid 18K rose gold with the Polo’s trademark horizontally brushed bezel, a black striated dial and an integrated black rubber strap, this Polo is the perfect blend of elegant and sporty.
Rolex puts a fresh coat of paint on its most attainable model
a rolex watch
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Beige
Specs
Rolex’s entry-level model had become known for its brightly colored dial treatments in recent years, like the viral Celebration dial, but for 2025, the brand took the OP in a more muted direction with pastel shades of Pistachio, Lavender and the Beige seen here.
Simultaneously modern and retro, the Beige lacquer dial is a surprise hit available across a range of Oyster Perpetual sizes.
